The Dead River: The Harsh Reality of the Textile Industry
In Bangladesh, the Buriganga has sadly earned the moniker of the 'dead river,' suffocated by textile and industrial pollution. Once a vital lifeline teeming with life, this river has been turned into a noxious, black watercourse due to poor wastewater management and the expansion of the fast fashion industry. Now, the fish have vanished, and fishermen lament the irreversible change to their environment
The Scourge of Fast Fashion: Bangladesh's River of Trash
This disturbing video has brought to light the devastation caused by these multibillion-dollar industries, where textile and plastic waste form gigantic heaps, replacing the water that once flowed between buildings. Well-known brands like Adidas, Zara, and Nike are implicated in this environmental catastrophe, with 73% of clothing imported into the United States originating from Asia, fueling the growth of the textile industry in Bangladesh.
The Consequences of Fast Fashion Dependency
This river of pollution represents the dark consequences of our dependence on fast fashion. As the demand for cheap clothing rises, so does the consumption of energy, the shedding of microfibers, and the release of harmful chemicals into wastewater, threatening human and animal life. Textile pollution, furthermore, surpasses the combined pollution of the aerospace and shipping industries in terms of carbon dioxide emissions, as highlighted by the European Parliament in its article titled ‘The Impact of Textile Production and Waste on the Environment.‘
The latter has pointed out that ‘Textile production is estimated to be responsible for about 20% of global water pollution due to various processes the products undergo, such as dyeing and finishing, and that washing synthetic garments releases 0.5 million tons of microfibers into the seas every year.’
The situation in Bangladesh is critical: despite regulations in place, their enforcement is inconsistent. Treatment plants fail to adequately remove microplastics, while tons of solid waste end up directly in natural habitats, rendering the water unfit for human and animal consumption.
Ambiguous and Non-transparent Data
Many industry experts continually strive to quantify the production of these fast fashion giants, but concrete data remains elusive.
A study conducted by The Guardian, however, sheds some light, stating that ‘clothing produced by these behemoths ranges annually between 80 billion and 150 billion garments, of which between 6 billion and 80 billion remain unsold.’
However, “nobody knows exactly how many coats, jeans, T-shirts, and sneakers are produced each year, which means nobody knows how many garments end up unsold in warehouses destined for landfills or destruction. Without this information, attempting to reduce the carbon footprint of the fashion industry is akin to solving a puzzle in the dark.”
Disinformation: an Emission Ally
Vox exposes one of the major issues plaguing the textile sector: disinformation. It’s not merely about fake news but rather a lack of accurate information, often incomplete and misleading, based on questionable statistics and opaque study sources. This leads to a lack of clarity in the framework for advocating new legislation or taking concrete actions to protect the environment.
EU Strategy to Limit Fast Fashion Damages
The European Union is seeking to address these catastrophic situations. The EU’s strategy for sustainable and circular textiles aims to transform the sector into a more ecological and competitive realm. This initiative aims to address the production and consumption of textile products, recognizing the sector’s importance and implementing commitments from the European Green Deal, the Action Plan for the Circular Economy, and the European Industrial Strategy.
The Importance of the Strategy
Textiles permeate daily life in various forms, from clothing to furniture, medical and protective equipment, buildings, and vehicles. However, the environmental impact of textiles continues to escalate, with significant consequences for climate change, our environments, and the use of natural resources, as witnessed in the case of rivers in Bangladesh. The strategy aims to scrutinize the entire life cycle of textile products and take coordinated actions to promote more sustainable production and consumption.
Strategy Objectives
The Commission’s 2030 vision for the textile sector aims to ensure that all textile products entering the EU market are durable, repairable, and recyclable, primarily made from recycled fibers and free from hazardous substances. Additionally, the strategy aims to promote the adoption of high-quality fabrics at affordable prices, the proliferation of reuse and repair services, and holding the textile sector accountable for more sustainable practices.
The strategy entails a series of concrete actions, including establishing design requirements for textiles that promote durability and recycling, providing clear information through a digital product passport for textiles, and combating overproduction and excessive consumption. Circular business models are also promoted, and Member States are encouraged to support the strategy’s objectives.
To ensure the strategy’s implementation, targeted regulations and directives have been proposed, such as the regulation on the eco-design of sustainable products and the Empowering Consumers in the Green Transition and Green Claims directives. Awareness campaigns have also been launched, such as ‘Reset the Trend‘ (#ReFashionNow), and plans are underway to update and revise existing regulations on textile labeling and waste management.
Will All This Be Enough?
While these initiatives are being put into action, one question arises: Will these precautions suffice to address the issue of fast fashion? Among the various solutions proposed by the EU, there is no mention of an initiative for managing waste produced by these industrial giants. Is it because a solution already exists, or is it a problem that, according to the institutions, does not directly concern us?